After Sitka we went to Wrangell, which is a different sort of town in
Southeast Alaska. The larger cruise ships don't go into Wrangell, so it
is not overrun by tourist and gift shops, like we saw in Skagway, and
to a certain degree in Sitka. We were in Wrangell four years ago, and
enjoyed it very much; it was refreshing after being in places dominated
by the cruise ships mentality. This time, however, our time here is
short - only a day and a half.
We got into Wrangell afer dark and headed for the Shoemaker Bay RV park run by the city.
We had stayed there when we were here four years ago. But the price has
gotten outrageous since then - $25 per night for a site with electricity but not
much else. The sites were muddy, and the bathroom is a grungy pit
toilet on the other side of the muddy parking lot for the Shoemaker Bay
harbor. $25 - $30 per night is the typical price for priviate
campgrounds in Alaska with electricity and water, bathrooms with flush
toilets, sinks, and hot showers, and often WiFi.
We spent the next day driving some of the forest roads on Wrangell
Island, since we didn't do that last time. We found a beautiful
campground run by the Forest Service; it is part of the Nemo Point
Recreation Area about 15 miles south of the city of Wrangell. The
campsites had a beautiful view of Zimovia Strait, free firewood, and
the price was right - free. So we stayed there our second night on
Wrangell and enjoyed it immensely. If we come to Wrangell again, we
will skip the city camping and go straight to Nemo Point.
The Shakes Island tribal house is located on Shakes Island, in the
middle of the Wrangell inner harbor. The tribal house was erected in
1940 as a reproduction of the historic tribal house at this location.
John Muir, in his book, "Travels in Alaska", writes about coming here
in the late 19th century to visit with Chief Shakes, the head of the
Stikine Tlingit group. A potlach was held by the local Tlingit clan in
1940 to celebrate the rebuilding of the tribal house. The Wrangell
Sentinel newspaper interviewed many of the Tlingits at that time as to
the stories behind the totem poles on Shakes Island. These stories were
published in 1940 and republished in the 2008 Wrangell Guide for
visitors.
The tribal house is closed, except for tours for cruise ship passengers
(I feel discriminated against!), but we found this photo of the
interior in the local museum. Except for the canoe, it is the typical
tribal house configuration.
The left photo shows the totem pole in front of the Shakes Island
tribal house. According to the Wrangell Guide, the lowest figure on the
pole is that of a doctor who was put to death by the people in the
clan. Above the doctor is the black fish; above the fish is
Na-chee-su-na, who is holding an adze. The next to the top figure is
Scow-qua, a legendary hunter in the Killisnoo tribe. At the top is the
Eagle, which is the symbol of the Eagle moietie in the Tlingit society.
Wrangell has a totem park with a few reproductions of other local historic
totem poles. The photo on the right shows the Kik.setti pole; the original
pole was carved in 1895 in honor of Chief Kahlteen, head of the
Kik.setti clan. According to the Wrangell Guide, "the pole is
surmounted by a face which represents a mountain. This mountain was the
camping place on the Stikine River... The frog below the face is the
emblem of the tribe. Befoe a legendary great flood, a young man
committed mischief to the frog. As a result, the man was thrown into a
trance and some clansmen were going to the kill the frog. But they
decided to wait until the chief returned. When the chief returned, he
told the men not to kill the frog because the from was considered part
of their family. Below the frog is the old Raven, the Creator,
according to the legend. The old Raven is talking to the young Raven
that made man. The lowest figure of all is the Killisnoo beaver."
Next we head on to Ketchikan, for our final stop in Alaska.