The ferry ride to Juneau and then on to Sitka was pretty dreary -
cloudy, rainy weather, with little views of the beautiful mountains in
this part of Alaska.
In Sitka we camped in the local national forest campground. This
stream was right next to our campsite. The NFS describes the forests
here as termperate rain forests. With all the moss, thick undergrowth,
and decayed trees, it is easy to see why it is called a rain forest. We
have been here for a week; it has rained some every day, and the
weather has been rather constant - it is either raining, or threatening
to rain. Our campsite did have some nice advantages - the blueberries
were ripe and free for the picking.
Another attraction was that the salmon were running, i.e. returning
from the ocean to spawn. Salmon have an interesting life cycle. They
hatch in fresh water streams and go to the ocean after about a year.
After spending 2 -5 years in the ocean they return to the stream where
they were hatched, spawn, and then die. The instinct to reproduce the
species must indeed be very powerful. The salmon run attracts bears,
since it is an easy source of food for them. The campground host had
warned us of a sow and two cubs (brown bears) in the area. We didn't
see the bears, but saw signs of their presence - partially eaten salmon
on the trail next to the stream.
The Indian River runs through Sitka. This pool in the river is thick with salmon.
The pool in the picture above is just below these cascades. It was
interesting to watch the salmon attempt to swim up the cascades. It was
quite a struggle for them. We didn't see any make it, but we did see
salmon above the cascades, so some of them were successful.
One of the attractions of Sitka is the New Archangels dance group. It
is a group of women who perform Russian folk dances. Women dance the
men's roles, as well as the women's roles.
Here they are doing a Russian gypsy folk dance. They were very good.
The Sheldon Jackson museum has an extensive collection of native
Alaskan artifacts. Sheldon Jackson was a Presbyterian missionary,
educator, and territorial government official in the late 19th and
early 20th century. He collected native artifacts, which became the
basis for this museum. Because of his collecting efforts, much
information about the native culture was preserved, that might have
otherwise been lost.
Sitka is also home to the Alaska Raptor Center, which is basically a
hospital for birds of prey. This worker at the Center is showing Sitka,
an eight year old bald eagle. Most of their patients are returned to
the wild after they have recovered from their injury. A few, such as
Sitka, have permanent injuries, and cannot be released to the wild, so
they are permanent residents at the center and are used for educational
programs.
Another bald eagle that is a permanent resident of the Raptor Center.
A golden eagle at the Center.
The Fortress of the Bear is a new addition to Sitka; it is a permanent
home for bears that cannot be returned to the wild. This one-and-a-half
year old cub, and his sibling, are the two bears at the center. The
cubs were orphaned when their mother was killed attempting to break
into a kitchen for food. The cubs were brought here since they were not
mature enough to survive on their own in the wild. Also, they had
learned to associate humans with food. In these circumstances, federal
regulations required that the cubs either be killed or a permanent home
for them in captivity be found. Consequently, they were brought here.
The Na Kahidi Dancers are a Tlingit dance group that performs in the
tribal ceremonial hall. They did a number of Tlingit and Haidi
(neighboring tribe to the south) dances. They were very good.
The dancers posed for photographs after the performance. The little boy
was really into the dancing and did a great job; he was fun to watch.
Sitka National Historical Park has a number of Tlingit and Haida totem
poles. The one in the left picture is the bicentennial pole, done as
part of our American bicentennial. It depicts 200 years of northwest
coast history. The figure at the top symbolizes the northwest coast
native American; the one below it represents the arrival of the white
man, who brought guns, Christianity, and treaties (symbolized by the
scroll in his right hand). Below the white man are the Raven and the
Eagle, symbols of the two Tlingit moieties. At the bottom is the
northwest coast Indian prior to the arrical of the white man. The top
figure holds two staffs; the one on the right is richly carved,
representing the rich cultural heritage of the past, the the one on the
left is uncarved, representing the unknown future.
The right picture shows a totem pole marking the site of the Tlingit
fort when the Russians regained control of Sitka in 1804 (The Tlingits
had chased them out in 1802). The top figure is the Raven; below him
are crestsof the Tlingit clans. At the bottom is the Raven helmet worn
by a legendary Tlingit warrior that led the battle against the Russians.
This Russian iron plate is on display in the Russian Bishop's house,
which is also part of Sitka National Historical Park. We were told that
the Russians buried twenty of these plates from the Bering Sea coast of
Alaska to California. The translation of the inscription is "This land
belongs to Russia". Of the twenty plates, this is the only one that has
been recovered.
The Russian Orthodox Church has a dominant position in the center of
the city. We met a women who had brought her aging mother to visit
Sitka and go to the church during Easter; her mother is Tlingit, a
native of Sitka, and a Russian Orthodox member. The woman told us that
the Easter service started at 11 p.m. and went until 4 a.m., and the
congregation stands throughout the entire service. Now, that is
dedication to one's religion.
Note the blue sky; on our last day here we awoke to a blue sky with
little cloudiness. Amazing! But, by mid-afternoon it was cloudy with
threatening rain clouds developing. The weather was back to normal.
A panorama of the Sitka harbor, with two cruise ships on the far
right. There are no docking facilities for large cruise ships, so they
anchor in the harbor and the passengers come ashore using small boats,
called "lighters".
It is time to leave Sitka; we will catch the 4:30 a.m. ferry to Wrangell.